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True Bias

Instant Classic: Odgen Cami from True Bias

August 13, 2017
True Bias Odgen Cami

True Bias Ogden CamiTrue Bias Ogden Cami

True Bias Ogden CamiTrue Bias Ogden CamiTrue Bias Ogden CamiTrue Bias Ogden Cami True Bias Ogden Cami  The Odgen Cami is probably one of my top 5 favourite indie patterns.

I chose my size based on my bust measurement, but I was still expecting this top to be too tight around the bust and to hang out from my body like a tent. Instead, I have the perfect amount of ease around the bust and I don’t feel like I am wearing a maternity top at all. I shortened the the straps by 3 inches during the construction, which turned out to be the right decision; except, I forgot to account for that lost length in the bodice and the inner facing.

Instead of landing under my bust, the facing hits me mid-boob. At least you can’t see it! The camisole ended up being a little short overall without those three inches, but I still have enough length to tuck it in to my high-waisted pants. I tend to have wider bra-straps, so I’ll be adding some width to those straps next time. I expect I will soon have many of these camisoles. This pattern only takes an afternoon to make and barely a metre of fabric!

I purchased a remnant of this Cotton and Steel rayon awhile back and was so happy to put it to use! I made this Ogden back in the spring and unfortunately, I have found this fabric shrinks every time I wash it (rarely, hand-wash, line-dry) so the shirt is slowly getting smaller and smaller. The colour also faded right away. This was from the first rayon line from Cotton and Steel, and I haven’t had these issues with my subsequent rayon purchases.

I wore this outfit out on a wonderful night out to celebrate my 10 year anniversary a few months ago. I was hoping to get my Kielo dress done in time to wear on our indulgent adventure, but in the end, I was happy that I didn’t rush that project and I felt so comfortable and relaxed in my cami.

Project: Ogden Cami with Cotton and Steel Rayon

Total cost: $35.00 CAD

Fabric: $20.00


Notions: $2.00

Total Hours: 4 (includes PDF assembly)

Techniques used: French seams

Fit: Size 8, straps shortened 3 inches, No FBA required

What to work on: Using up those fabric scraps making more!

A very wearable muslin: True Bias Southport Dress

August 29, 2016
Southport dress 1

Southport dress 2Southport dress 3Southport 8

I’ve got a dress! One that does not make it look like I should be giving a serious conference presentation!

I’ve purchased a few metres of some beautiful Nani Iro double gauze for a Southport Dress, but before I cut into that precious stock, I wanted to make sure the fit of the dress would be spot-on. As this was just a practice version, I didn’t bother with matching the print on this cotton ikat. I’ll save that (and french seams) for the next dress. I like that this pattern is finished with bias tape on the neckline and arms. It’s a nice clean finish inside, without any of the fuss of facings.

For the Southport Dress, I made the mistake of practicing “aspirational cutting”. I cut out the size I wanted to be instead of the size I currently am in that pattern. Good thing I wasn’t using my special Japanese fabric! Luckily, it was just a matter of one size difference and I serged the seams together to save some inches where I could. I cut out a size 2 and put in a 1-inch Full Bust Adjustment and added 1 inch to the skirt pieces to match. The fit is actually pretty great. A little snug through the arm scythes, but that’s all.  Next time, I’ll size up for a more relaxed fit. I can see many versions of this dress in my future!

Project: Southport Dress Muslin

Total cost: $38.00

Fabric: $16.99

Notions: $8

Pattern: $12.99 USD

Time: 6 hours (including cutting and assembling the PDF pattern)

Fit: As above. I’ll go up a size and lengthen the bodice next time.

Skills/Techniques: Full-bust adjustment, Bias binding, buttonholes.