Second up in my series of coats is the Pauline Alice Quart Coat. This coat is far more tailored in both style and construction than my Cascade Duffle Coat. This dramatic coat features many design elements, including princess seams, epaulettes, pleats and exposed zippers on the sleeves. I used a black Melton wool and Kasha (a double-faced satin/flannel fabric) for the lining.
I learned many new techniques for this project. There is so much interfacing in this coat (you can see more behind-the-scenes on my Instagram) and I certainly appreciated the extra effort once it all came together. I ended up adding even more interfacing to the collar and tacked down the side pleats because they were giving a fluting effect to the bottom of the coat that I wasn’t keen on. This was the first time I’ve put exposed zippers on a sleeve and also the first time I’ve MADE BOUND BUTTONHOLES! They aren’t easily visible in a photograph of a black coat, but they are there and they are glorious. I used the Sewaholic tutorial for reference and just took it step by step. Like everything in sewing, it wasn’t nearly as complicated or scary as I expected it to be.
I did have a little trouble with the instructions though. There are multiple steps in text followed by several illustrations in a row and I had to really focus to stay on track. The instruction booklet comes in three languages, so I can understand that a more detailed layout would result in something the length of a textbook. There is also a pdf “sewalong” and I found myself using that more often.
I am very proud of this garment. It’s a great coat – maybe even too great. It doesn’t look homemade, so no one (who didn’t already know that I was working on it) has asked me if it’s my own work. It feels like a secret I am bursting to casually drop into the conversation:
“I made this.”
Project: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
Hours to complete: 45
Total Cost $208.49
Fabric: $157 for outer and lining fabric
Notions (buttons, zippers, thread, shoulder pads etc.): $31.50
Fit: Straight size 40. I could have used a small swayback adjustment in the back.
Techniques: Bound buttonholes, shoulder caps and pads pleating, hand sewing.
What to work on: More scary things! Bring on the bras!