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Grainline Studios

Calling Spring: Archer Button-Up

February 10, 2017
Archer Button Up

Archer Button Up 

I had purchased this fabric intending to wait for warmer temperatures to make it, but judging by the amount of snow we just received, Spring is still very far away indeed. I decided to cheer myself up by diving into this woven from Andover fabrics (part of the Dream Weaves collection). It was very easy to work with, but, the right side and the wrong side of the fabric are nearly identical, so there were a few steps where I tripped myself up.

I made the 2nd variation of the Archer Button Up Shirt from Grainline Studio (AKA the Bum-Ruffle Shirt). This was my first Archer and it was easy to see why this is a mainstay for garment-sewers. It’s roomy and relaxed without looking like I stole my husband’s shirt and lends itself to endless customization. I opted not to use the breast pockets (they are a little too oversized and boob-tastic for me).

I made a size 6 and didn’t need any kind of a full-breast-adjustment – no pulling here! I used the burrito-roll technique for the shoulder seams and flat-felled others where I could, with mixed results. I found it difficult to flatten out the gathered seam allowance enough to create even seams around the shoulders. I did however, finally, remember to label my sleeves, so I actually put the correct sleeve on the appropriate side the first time around. I also followed the ever useful, alternate-collar-technique-tutorial from Four Square Walls for a hassle-free finish.

Project: Grainline Studio Archer Button Up

Total Cost: $81

Fabric:$50

Pattern: $21

Notions: $10

Time: 12 hours, including cutting out the pattern

Techniques: Flat-felled seams, sleeve plackets, burrito roll yokes

Fit: Straight size 6. I could use a narrow-shoulder adjustment next time.

What to work on: Ugh. Flat-felled seams with gathers.

 

 

JCrew DIY: Linden Sweatshirt from Grainline Studios

January 13, 2017
Linden Sweatshirt

Linden Sweatshirt

Linden SweatshirtLinden Sweatshirt  Linden Sweatshirt I am the worst kind of shopper: I will see something I like, mutter to myself, “I could make that” and walk away. Then, I rarely ever get around to making my own.

But not today! Instead, I have one of my favourite makes so far to show you.

When I saw the Gayle Sweater from JCrew pop up online, I knew I would easily be able to make my own version from the Linden Sweatshirt pattern from Grainline Studios. The ribbing of this soft sweater knit (another BlackBird Fabrics score) wasn’t an exact match, but I was perfectly happy to have something “inspired” by, rather than a direct copy (although I’m sure I knitting it would be possible, just not by me at this time.)

I have made several Linden sweatshirts over the years (you can see my most recent one here) and they remain some of the most-worn items in my closet. I haven’t worked with sweater knits that much before, but I have several projects made with them to show you this month! I was careful about my cutting and made my usual adjustments for this full-length version: I sized down drastically and cut the width of the band to match body pieces rather using the ribbed band. I also increased the width of the neckband (by about 2.5x) to accommodate the bow.

I’m so happy with it! It feels preppy without being precious and a little tuxedo-inspired.

Project: JCrew DIY Linden

Total cost: $50.99

Fabric: $23

Pattern:$21.00 CAD

Notions: $6.99

Fit: Size 2 for the body and sleeves, size 8 for the bottom band. Increased the width of the neckband.

What to work on: Learning to knit!

Burberry, by Me: The Cascade Duffle Coat

November 22, 2016
Cascade Duffle Coat

Cascade Duffle Coat Cascade Duffle CoatCascae Duffle Coat 4Cascade Duffle CoatCascade Duffle CoatCascade Duffle CoatCascade Duffle Coat

All images by North by North Photography

While I am passionate about mindful consumption, there is one category of clothing that I have decided not to place any restrictions on: outerwear. In previous years, I would only have one cold-weather coat, which I wore day after day after day, after day, after day. I live on the East Coast of Canada (we are basically North Maine), where snow is a usual occurrence from November well into May, with more than our share of storms thrown in for good measure. It is a very long season and I am often feeling as frayed at the edges as my sad coat by about February. So, in the interest of mental health, I hereby declare this the Year of the Coat!

First up in my series of outerwear is an item that I am so proud of, the Cascade Duffle Coat from Grainline Studios. I have been hoarding this beautiful Burberry fabric (bought online at Mood Fabrics) for over a year. I must have ordered exactly as much as I needed for my size (straight size 10) because I had just enough. It was scary to finally cut into it after all this time. I’m unsure of the fiber content, but it is so soft and warm. The only way I think of to describe it is sumptuous. I used Kasha for the lining (a fabric that is satin on one side and flannel on the other) and the coat feels cozy and substantial. It’s the nicest winter coat I’ve had in years and I finished it without a moment to spare – I saw my first snowflakes today.

As other sewists have pointed out, there are indeed 40 pieces to this pattern and the construction took me several 8 hour days and then some. I dyed the cording for the toggles with tea in order to tone down the original brilliant white colour. I love them, but I’m not sure how long they will hold up under bags and scarves and general winter weather. I may change them out for some made with twill tape instead. The coat itself is long, but I will take all the winter protection I can get! The pattern offers either a cropped or a long version, but I think I would like to try something that’s in-between as well.

When I told Alexa and Luke from North by North Photography that I wanted to have an outdoorsy shoot, they immediately suggested a trail that I’ve never been to and I’m so glad they did. Not only did I get some fantastic photos, but I also had a great morning hiking around the woods with them.

 

Project: Burberry Cascade Duffle Coat

Total Cost:$264 CAD

Pattern:$22

Fabric: $220 (including the coating, lining and interfacing)

Notions: $22

Fit: No alterations.

Techniques: Bagging a lining

What to work on: Gathering all my supplies in one go. I wish I had picked out fancier toggle buttons in the year I’ve had the fabric. I was all set to go with this project and then realised that I wouldn’t be able to get any toggles other than these locally.