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A very wearable muslin: True Bias Southport Dress

August 29, 2016
Southport dress 1

Southport dress 2Southport dress 3Southport 8

I’ve got a dress! One that does not make it look like I should be giving a serious conference presentation!

I’ve purchased a few metres of some beautiful Nani Iro double gauze for a Southport Dress, but before I cut into that precious stock, I wanted to make sure the fit of the dress would be spot-on. As this was just a practice version, I didn’t bother with matching the print on this cotton ikat. I’ll save that (and french seams) for the next dress. I like that this pattern is finished with bias tape on the neckline and arms. It’s a nice clean finish inside, without any of the fuss of facings.

For the Southport Dress, I made the mistake of practicing “aspirational cutting”. I cut out the size I wanted to be instead of the size I currently am in that pattern. Good thing I wasn’t using my special Japanese fabric! Luckily, it was just a matter of one size difference and I serged the seams together to save some inches where I could. I cut out a size 2 and put in a 1-inch Full Bust Adjustment and added 1 inch to the skirt pieces to match. The fit is actually pretty great. A little snug through the arm scythes, but that’s all. Β Next time, I’ll size up for a more relaxed fit. I can see many versions of this dress in my future!

Project: Southport Dress Muslin

Total cost: $38.00

Fabric: $16.99

Notions: $8

Pattern: $12.99 USD

Time: 6 hours (including cutting and assembling the PDF pattern)

Fit: As above. I’ll go up a size and lengthen the bodice next time.

Skills/Techniques: Full-bust adjustment, Bias binding, buttonholes.