Gingham Archer

April 16, 2017

I really should re-name this project Erica Makes Blue and White Shirts.

I’ve had this fabric forever and I kept using it for interior pockets on jeans and other items. It’s soft, crisp and with a bit of stretch. I realized that I’d better hurry up and make an actual garment out of it before I cut it down anymore, or I’d only have enough fabric left for…more pockets. I made this shirt at the same time as my Striped Archer, but made a few planning mistakes on this version that the striped one benefited from.

  1. I forgot to account for the seam allowances when laying out the pattern pieces for cutting. The Archer has a sewn-on front placket on one side of the shirt, while the other side is folded under twice. This meant that instead of having a continuous pattern across the front, I ended up having to shave off 1/2 from the folded side to create a more balanced effect.
  2. I did the same thing on the back. The stripes are 1′ wide and I easily could have planned for the external pleat to go over one stripe, like this great version from Helen’s Closet. I turned the pleat inside so that it wouldn’t stand out too much.
  3. I ended up making two collars because I cut the first one with horizontal stripes. It looked much better on the bias.
  4. I tried to take pictures of a bright shirt outside, in Canada, in April. Weather ensued and it took 3 attempts to get it together.

However, please don’t let all of this nit-picking trick you into thinking I don’t love this shirt. I was feeling a little over it by the time I was finally done, but haven’t stopped wearing it.  I put out a call for button opinions on Instagram and was very happy with my choice (they are from The Mariner’s Daughter).

I understand why people who sew tend to have an Archer for every day of the week. This one feels the most boxy of the three I have made, as the fabric has the most body. It’s also the version that has convinced me to do a narrow-shoulder-adjustment next time. But I really will need to wait to make another one: I am on a shirt-making moratorium until I round out this handmade wardrobe of mine. Dresses! Bras! Pants! Shoes! Anything that uses a zipper! Let’s do it!

 

Project: Gingham Archer

Total Cost: $52

Fabric: $20

Pattern: $22 (Since I already own this pattern, I will remove the cost of it from the total cost of my wardrobe at the update).

Notions: $10

Time: 10 hours

Fit: Straight size 6, but I will definitely be doing a narrow-shoulder adjustment next time.

Techniques: Pattern-matching until my head hurt, burrito-roll shoulders, buttonholes, the alternate collar order.

 

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3 Comments

  • Reply Abbey April 23, 2017 at 7:44 pm

    This is fab! Loving all of your Archers. I also seem to gravitate to blue fabrics.

  • Reply Luna June 6, 2017 at 1:37 am

    Hi! I love following along with all of your beautiful makes. You are such a talented and inspiring seamstress! I am a 17-yo who loves to sew, and my most complicated project to date is the Carolyn pajamas (with piping); I had a lot of fun with them and love the result. Since you’ve made the Carolyns and the Archer button-up shirt, I was wondering how you would compare the relative difficulty/skill level of the two patterns. Thanks!

    • Reply Erica June 8, 2017 at 3:49 pm

      Hi Luna! Oh man, the Carolyn PJ’s are pretty advanced! I think you would do just fine with the Archer. The Grainline sew-alongs are very clear and well done. Let me know how it goes!

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